8-10-2010
The trip to Simanjiro was a great success. The area is stunningly beautiful, situated on a plain about 150 kilometers southwest of Moshi/Kilimanjaro. The great plain stretches for what seems like ever, and is home, to many game reserves for hunting, and Tarangire National Park. Orkesmet, the town I visited, sits on a hill overlooking a major portion of the plain, and is home to a few thousand residents.
I met with a man named Makunzi, who works for the government district office in Simanjiro, who helped me set up meetings with government officials who are working on their own food storage project. I got to tour a few different food storage facilities, both private and public, and we met at great length about the construction process, cost, and the science of food storage.
Makunzi offered the best Tanzanian hospitality, opening his home for me, and his wife provided some delicious Ugali Nyama. Apparently Simanjiro has trouble getting vegetables, so the food of choice is just Ugali (from corn) with Meat (nyama). Not a problem for me, since I happen to be a meat lover, but I had a moment of silence to think of the poor vegetarian traveler that stops in orkesmet.
Makunzi also was very prideful of the fact that he is an avid hunter, and showed me many of his trophies from hunting on the plains. He had about 15 different skulls of different ruminates that he had hunted, some of which had some incredibly huge antlers. I have handled Southeastern American Buck antlers before, but the antelope, oryx, and kudu antlers were titanic compared to anything I had seen before.
Previously, I had been very curious about how hunting became a part of Tanzanian culture, since it seems that with as many cows as there are, it hardly seemed economical to drive for hours to a hunting spot, camp, then hunt, for meat. Makunzi explained that if you have access to a car, the permit to hunt an animal is only about 50,000 shillings ($30), but you can’t sell the meat. So whenever communities, or churches in the area want to have a feast for a certain event (funeral, celebration, etc) they pay him to go hunt Eland, Kudu, or Gazelle, and then use the meat for the feast. If you need a lot of meat, it can save a good deal of money.
He also explained that as a foreigner, I can get permits to shoot a whole variety of animals that are not available for Tanzanians (I remain a bit skeptical of the ethics of such a policy), and invited me to return to Simanjiro to go hunt with him sometime. I told him that I would not be opposed to the idea, but would have to think of a really good reason to have a feast if I was going to shoot an animal for it.
On a more somber note, the research portion of this trip is coming to a end, and this will be my last update before I leave. I will leave Kibaya on Sunday, and won't have access to a laptop anymore to save my posts. I will return to Dar es Salaam. There I will play basketball with the Outsiders, and fly home on the 18th.
I don’t have much time to sum up the research project, and I will do so once I return home on the 19th. But I can say with great confidence that this experience has been a great challenge, that has brought out the best in me. A special thank you to CBR for making this happen, and I look forward to seeing everyone when I am home.
Sending love and spirit for adventure,
Tony
Wednesday, August 11, 2010
8-5-2010
8-5-2010
Project updates: Surveys have been a great success. Have had a chance to meet with many farmers and discuss their food storage needs, and feel like I am coming to a legitimate understanding of the issue here. The Bishop has asked that I stay involved in the project, and is really interested to know if I would be able to help the region construct some food storage facilities in Parish communities, that would be available to the communities (not just church members) for food storage. I told him that I would look into it, and see what role I could play.
Through a friend in the government planning office here, I found a man in Orkesmet, Simanjiro, who has experience constructing food storage facilities for small scale growers, and I’m going to plan a trip this week via bus (too far on a piki-piki;).
Will update once I return from Simanjiro.
Project updates: Surveys have been a great success. Have had a chance to meet with many farmers and discuss their food storage needs, and feel like I am coming to a legitimate understanding of the issue here. The Bishop has asked that I stay involved in the project, and is really interested to know if I would be able to help the region construct some food storage facilities in Parish communities, that would be available to the communities (not just church members) for food storage. I told him that I would look into it, and see what role I could play.
Through a friend in the government planning office here, I found a man in Orkesmet, Simanjiro, who has experience constructing food storage facilities for small scale growers, and I’m going to plan a trip this week via bus (too far on a piki-piki;).
Will update once I return from Simanjiro.
8-3-2010
8-3--2010: What is the What:
I was fortunate to bring with me a copy of Dave Egger’s book “What is the What” which is a novel that is based on the life of a Sudanese Refugee, Valentino Achach Deng. The book, which I recommend to anyone interested in global issues and development, is at first glance, a gripping story of one man’s perspective and life amidst the Sudanese civil war, and then as a refugee in Ethiopia and Kenya. But I think the real significance of the book is Deng’s constant references to the ‘What’ and the lessons that it teaches regarding contemporary development in our globalizing world. I understand ‘the what’ as what people concerned with international development consider the ‘end’ (goal) of development. In other words, think of it like this: We label countries as ‘developed’ and ‘developing’. The question that the ethicist must ask, is developing towards ‘what’?
In Egger’s book, the idea of the ‘what’ is explained through a traditional Dinka (a southern Sudanese ethnic group) story, which I will briefly summarize: God makes cattle, and man sees that cattle are good. God gives man the choice, either he can have the cattle, or he can have ‘the what’ (purposely left ambiguous). Man chooses the cattle, and cattle becomes the way of life. Egger’s book constantly references Deng’s struggles with life in America, where he pursues ‘The American Dream’, and relates his struggles to the choice between cattle (alluding to traditional life in Sudan) and the ‘what’ (which in Deng’s case, becomes the American Dream).
For those who are concerned with the ethics of development, I think this is a powerful lesson. While many idealistic individuals in the US with good intentions to change the world for the better, its important to realize that the end (goal) of development needs careful consideration.
I think it is fair to say, that for many well intentioned, idealistic people, ‘development’ essentially amounts to ensuring that people around the world are capable of living lives that are similar in lifestyle and values to life in America. The question, ‘what is the what’ essentially forces us to actively assess the merits of such idealism.
To better highlight what I mean, and my intentions for writing this piece, I will introduce an example that I come across every day here in Kibaya.
Tanzania is home to many different ethnic groups, which still make up a major part of the Tanzanian identity and culture. Here in Kibaya, the main ethnic groups that are present are Gogo, and Massai. The Gogo are traditionally farmers, and many of whom now farm Maize and cash crops. Most of the farmers that I am working with in my research are Gogo.
The Massai, a traditionally pastoralist people, are often referred to as the most famous ethnic group in Africa. Their distinct cultural dress, and their proximity to the most popular tourism destinations in Africa (The Kenyan and Tanzanian National Game Parks) certainly contribute to their global recognition.
The question of ‘What is the What’ is present every day here in Kibaya.
It is not uncommon to come across a Massai man, with hundreds of cattle, and rich Massai men can have over a thousand cows. Here in Tanzania, the per capita income is less than $400, and a cow can be sold for meat for 200,000 Shillings ($133).
For a man who has over a thousand cows, he has the choice to lead a life that would be luxurious even by American Standards (1,000 cows at $133 per cow is $133,000, which is a relative fortune in Tanzania). But the traditional life dominates, which means living in a traditional Massai community: No running water, No electricity, a simple mud hut with a thatch roof.
What is the what?
Note: This week’s research has been well, but had to take a hiatus from Kibaya to return to Dar es Salaam to get more money; The only bank here in Kibaya doesn’t take cards, so I can’t withdraw any cash. Added Bonus: One of my friends who I met through the Dar es Salaam Outsiders (the basketball team I played for while at UDSM) is a fairly well known rapper, and is making a music video that he wants me to be in. Never would have dreamed that I would be in a rap music video, but you only live once right? Returning to Kibaya on Wednesday.
Still informally teaching – Now I’m planning lessons around what the students ask me to teach on. We are doing English tenses today.
Salama lekum.
I was fortunate to bring with me a copy of Dave Egger’s book “What is the What” which is a novel that is based on the life of a Sudanese Refugee, Valentino Achach Deng. The book, which I recommend to anyone interested in global issues and development, is at first glance, a gripping story of one man’s perspective and life amidst the Sudanese civil war, and then as a refugee in Ethiopia and Kenya. But I think the real significance of the book is Deng’s constant references to the ‘What’ and the lessons that it teaches regarding contemporary development in our globalizing world. I understand ‘the what’ as what people concerned with international development consider the ‘end’ (goal) of development. In other words, think of it like this: We label countries as ‘developed’ and ‘developing’. The question that the ethicist must ask, is developing towards ‘what’?
In Egger’s book, the idea of the ‘what’ is explained through a traditional Dinka (a southern Sudanese ethnic group) story, which I will briefly summarize: God makes cattle, and man sees that cattle are good. God gives man the choice, either he can have the cattle, or he can have ‘the what’ (purposely left ambiguous). Man chooses the cattle, and cattle becomes the way of life. Egger’s book constantly references Deng’s struggles with life in America, where he pursues ‘The American Dream’, and relates his struggles to the choice between cattle (alluding to traditional life in Sudan) and the ‘what’ (which in Deng’s case, becomes the American Dream).
For those who are concerned with the ethics of development, I think this is a powerful lesson. While many idealistic individuals in the US with good intentions to change the world for the better, its important to realize that the end (goal) of development needs careful consideration.
I think it is fair to say, that for many well intentioned, idealistic people, ‘development’ essentially amounts to ensuring that people around the world are capable of living lives that are similar in lifestyle and values to life in America. The question, ‘what is the what’ essentially forces us to actively assess the merits of such idealism.
To better highlight what I mean, and my intentions for writing this piece, I will introduce an example that I come across every day here in Kibaya.
Tanzania is home to many different ethnic groups, which still make up a major part of the Tanzanian identity and culture. Here in Kibaya, the main ethnic groups that are present are Gogo, and Massai. The Gogo are traditionally farmers, and many of whom now farm Maize and cash crops. Most of the farmers that I am working with in my research are Gogo.
The Massai, a traditionally pastoralist people, are often referred to as the most famous ethnic group in Africa. Their distinct cultural dress, and their proximity to the most popular tourism destinations in Africa (The Kenyan and Tanzanian National Game Parks) certainly contribute to their global recognition.
The question of ‘What is the What’ is present every day here in Kibaya.
It is not uncommon to come across a Massai man, with hundreds of cattle, and rich Massai men can have over a thousand cows. Here in Tanzania, the per capita income is less than $400, and a cow can be sold for meat for 200,000 Shillings ($133).
For a man who has over a thousand cows, he has the choice to lead a life that would be luxurious even by American Standards (1,000 cows at $133 per cow is $133,000, which is a relative fortune in Tanzania). But the traditional life dominates, which means living in a traditional Massai community: No running water, No electricity, a simple mud hut with a thatch roof.
What is the what?
Note: This week’s research has been well, but had to take a hiatus from Kibaya to return to Dar es Salaam to get more money; The only bank here in Kibaya doesn’t take cards, so I can’t withdraw any cash. Added Bonus: One of my friends who I met through the Dar es Salaam Outsiders (the basketball team I played for while at UDSM) is a fairly well known rapper, and is making a music video that he wants me to be in. Never would have dreamed that I would be in a rap music video, but you only live once right? Returning to Kibaya on Wednesday.
Still informally teaching – Now I’m planning lessons around what the students ask me to teach on. We are doing English tenses today.
Salama lekum.
7-29-2010
7-29-2010
Community Engagement: Farmers and Funerals
One of the biggest challenges to accessing the farmers that I am working with is finding a time to meet. They are often busy with their farms this time of year, because it is harvest season. I found that a great way to find time to work with them is through attending community events where everyone in the community is already coming together. My friend Samuel mentioned that he was going to a memorial service for an elderly man who had died, and politely extended an invitation to me. I say ‘politely’ because I am not sure he expected me to attend, and he appeared quite surprised when I eagerly accepted.
The event was not so much of a funeral, as it was a ceremony to celebrate the life of a well respected member of the community. I found he actually had died in January, so the service was well after the initial mourning process. The man who died was apparently very involved in the Anglican Church, and the ceremony featured five different church kwaya (that’s the kiswahili word for Choir), each of which brought a surprisingly large/loud sound system. The music was loud enough to attract a few hundred people, and was entertaining enough to keep everyone there for several hours. Samuel made it a point to introduce me, and I explained my research to the crowd.
Afterwords, I got a chance to sit down with a group of seven farmers to discuss their production systems. They were very happy to work with me, and they were extremely patient with my kiswahili. Overall, this was the most successful way that I have found to really access the community members that I want to work with, and I see this as a valuable lesson in how to continue with my research.
As of now, I am working with some of my friends in town to arrange similar events in the area. By participating in community events, its clear that I have access to the community members that my research demands I work with, and it makes the research process much smoother for me, and for the farmers that must donate their time.
Community Engagement: Farmers and Funerals
One of the biggest challenges to accessing the farmers that I am working with is finding a time to meet. They are often busy with their farms this time of year, because it is harvest season. I found that a great way to find time to work with them is through attending community events where everyone in the community is already coming together. My friend Samuel mentioned that he was going to a memorial service for an elderly man who had died, and politely extended an invitation to me. I say ‘politely’ because I am not sure he expected me to attend, and he appeared quite surprised when I eagerly accepted.
The event was not so much of a funeral, as it was a ceremony to celebrate the life of a well respected member of the community. I found he actually had died in January, so the service was well after the initial mourning process. The man who died was apparently very involved in the Anglican Church, and the ceremony featured five different church kwaya (that’s the kiswahili word for Choir), each of which brought a surprisingly large/loud sound system. The music was loud enough to attract a few hundred people, and was entertaining enough to keep everyone there for several hours. Samuel made it a point to introduce me, and I explained my research to the crowd.
Afterwords, I got a chance to sit down with a group of seven farmers to discuss their production systems. They were very happy to work with me, and they were extremely patient with my kiswahili. Overall, this was the most successful way that I have found to really access the community members that I want to work with, and I see this as a valuable lesson in how to continue with my research.
As of now, I am working with some of my friends in town to arrange similar events in the area. By participating in community events, its clear that I have access to the community members that my research demands I work with, and it makes the research process much smoother for me, and for the farmers that must donate their time.
7-27-2010
7-27-2010
I have heard other travelers say that it is not easy getting around Tanzania. I don’t really feel that this is a fair assessment. If you are patient, and can refrain from drinking water for long periods of time (or be really good at holding water with you – and I don’t mean in a water bottle), you can find a bus to take you just about a where you want to go.
However, here in Kiteto, busses won’t get you to farmers. For that, you need some form of personal transport.
Let me introduce today’s Kiswahili word of the day: Piki-piki. Translation: Motorcyle!
To get around kibaya, the ideal method of transport conveniently happens to be my favorite: The Dirt Bike. There are a good deal of surplus Chinese bikes around town, ones that I wouldn’t trust to ride on a road in the states – but to get around here they are perfect. I feel a little guilty that my research has turned out to be so much fun! It’s quite a pleasure to zoom around the bush on a peppy 125cc bike on my way to meet farmers.
I’ve been riding for years, and I’m quite confident on a motorcycle, but in all honesty it did take a little time to get acclimated to the ‘Traffic’ here in Kibaya. Now for those of you who have been following, Kibaya is a very small town, and there aren’t many cars or bikes here. But there are lots, and lots of cows, goats, and sheep. Imagine cresting a hill at 50 miles an hour and find yourself staring at a herd of thousands of livestock returning from the river to drink! You learn pretty quickly where the cows are likely to be, so as long as you don’t speed over certain hills, there’s not much of a risk of hitting one unexpectedly.
But it does seem that cows are more acclimated to dealing with people on motorbikes than I am with them. They don’t seem to have much of a sense of urgency to yield, but with a liberal use of the bike’s horn (and the occasional slap on the rump) they will meander out of the road.
I don’t want to make it seem like its my job to herd the cows out of the road all by myself. Each herd comes equipped with a few boys (typically 6-14 years old) that have sticks to herd them. Unfortunately, since there are not many Mzungu’s that ride motorbikes in this region, quite frequently the boys seem to forget about their herding duties to stare at my Mustache and North Carolina Basketball jersey as I weave through hooves and horns. (If you’re wondering about the jersey, after Barack Obama, Michael Jordan is the most popular American here, so it’s a good way to make a connection with people).
I have heard other travelers say that it is not easy getting around Tanzania. I don’t really feel that this is a fair assessment. If you are patient, and can refrain from drinking water for long periods of time (or be really good at holding water with you – and I don’t mean in a water bottle), you can find a bus to take you just about a where you want to go.
However, here in Kiteto, busses won’t get you to farmers. For that, you need some form of personal transport.
Let me introduce today’s Kiswahili word of the day: Piki-piki. Translation: Motorcyle!
To get around kibaya, the ideal method of transport conveniently happens to be my favorite: The Dirt Bike. There are a good deal of surplus Chinese bikes around town, ones that I wouldn’t trust to ride on a road in the states – but to get around here they are perfect. I feel a little guilty that my research has turned out to be so much fun! It’s quite a pleasure to zoom around the bush on a peppy 125cc bike on my way to meet farmers.
I’ve been riding for years, and I’m quite confident on a motorcycle, but in all honesty it did take a little time to get acclimated to the ‘Traffic’ here in Kibaya. Now for those of you who have been following, Kibaya is a very small town, and there aren’t many cars or bikes here. But there are lots, and lots of cows, goats, and sheep. Imagine cresting a hill at 50 miles an hour and find yourself staring at a herd of thousands of livestock returning from the river to drink! You learn pretty quickly where the cows are likely to be, so as long as you don’t speed over certain hills, there’s not much of a risk of hitting one unexpectedly.
But it does seem that cows are more acclimated to dealing with people on motorbikes than I am with them. They don’t seem to have much of a sense of urgency to yield, but with a liberal use of the bike’s horn (and the occasional slap on the rump) they will meander out of the road.
I don’t want to make it seem like its my job to herd the cows out of the road all by myself. Each herd comes equipped with a few boys (typically 6-14 years old) that have sticks to herd them. Unfortunately, since there are not many Mzungu’s that ride motorbikes in this region, quite frequently the boys seem to forget about their herding duties to stare at my Mustache and North Carolina Basketball jersey as I weave through hooves and horns. (If you’re wondering about the jersey, after Barack Obama, Michael Jordan is the most popular American here, so it’s a good way to make a connection with people).
7-26-2010
7-26-2010
Today’s word: Mahindi.
Mahindi is Maize, or Corn, which is the main source of calories for much of Tanzania ( I say this hesitantly, as I expect that some regions depend more on Cassava).
I am feeling really settled into life here in Kibaya, and wanted to give some updates on my daily routine. I am planning on traveling to visit and interview farmers for research a few days a week, depending on when I can network with community members to meet with me. It is harvest season right now, so farmers are busy collecting their Maize from the fields, and preparing it for sale. I still am finding plenty of people willing to meet with me, and the survey portion of research is going well.
But there is still plenty of time in my schedule to be occupied! I have visited a few schools in Kibaya, and have been able to speak to several different groups of students. I’m playing football (soccer) in the afternoons at the secondary school, and am teaching lessons in the evening on english and mathmatics (we did coordinate geometry last night). The students have class from 9-5 like a normal school day, but reconvene from 8-10 at night to study more, which is where I have been helping out. This has been a great way to really be involved in community life here, and make connections on a personal level.
I’m helping with a form 2 class, which in academic years, is the equivalent of 9th or 10th grade. However, I don’t want to give the impression that I’m teaching 14 year olds, because the youngest student in the class is 18, and most of which are between 20-24, so it is really not like I’m teaching children, but more of participating in a tutoring session among my peers here in Kibaya. Tutoring like this has helped my kiswahili tremendously, and I’m feeling like I have progressed from ‘beginner’ to ‘conversational’. Teaching informally like this also helps me make friends, as we spend a good deal of time talking about our home lives (they are curious about my life in America, and I’m equally curious about their lives.)
One of the young men is Massai, and his dad is apparently very rich for a Massai man. He has over 7,000 cows (which makes him, by net worth, a millionare). He has 10 wives, and over 100 children, but lives without electricity.
Today’s word: Mahindi.
Mahindi is Maize, or Corn, which is the main source of calories for much of Tanzania ( I say this hesitantly, as I expect that some regions depend more on Cassava).
I am feeling really settled into life here in Kibaya, and wanted to give some updates on my daily routine. I am planning on traveling to visit and interview farmers for research a few days a week, depending on when I can network with community members to meet with me. It is harvest season right now, so farmers are busy collecting their Maize from the fields, and preparing it for sale. I still am finding plenty of people willing to meet with me, and the survey portion of research is going well.
But there is still plenty of time in my schedule to be occupied! I have visited a few schools in Kibaya, and have been able to speak to several different groups of students. I’m playing football (soccer) in the afternoons at the secondary school, and am teaching lessons in the evening on english and mathmatics (we did coordinate geometry last night). The students have class from 9-5 like a normal school day, but reconvene from 8-10 at night to study more, which is where I have been helping out. This has been a great way to really be involved in community life here, and make connections on a personal level.
I’m helping with a form 2 class, which in academic years, is the equivalent of 9th or 10th grade. However, I don’t want to give the impression that I’m teaching 14 year olds, because the youngest student in the class is 18, and most of which are between 20-24, so it is really not like I’m teaching children, but more of participating in a tutoring session among my peers here in Kibaya. Tutoring like this has helped my kiswahili tremendously, and I’m feeling like I have progressed from ‘beginner’ to ‘conversational’. Teaching informally like this also helps me make friends, as we spend a good deal of time talking about our home lives (they are curious about my life in America, and I’m equally curious about their lives.)
One of the young men is Massai, and his dad is apparently very rich for a Massai man. He has over 7,000 cows (which makes him, by net worth, a millionare). He has 10 wives, and over 100 children, but lives without electricity.
7-22-2010
7-22-2010
This week, I met with a government planning officer, and the Bishop of the Anglican Diocese of Kiteto to discuss the question of food storage. The Bishop was very eager to tell me that his Diocese has been focusing on food security issues, and mentioned that one major issue amongst his people was food security during the rainy season (Fed to April), which he attributed to farmer’s lack of food storage capacity. We talked for a bit about my research interests, and he seemed interested and said that he would be very interested to help me with my research.
At this point, I see my research interests shifting towards a question that is more relevant to the community needs here: How food storage can be a means to improving food security and economic well being of small scale farmers in the Kiteto and Simanjiro Districts. I have adapted my survey that I originally drafted to work with Parachichi producers to give a good understanding of the household income portfolios of small scale farmers here in Kiteto. Both the Bishop and the Project planning officer have assured me that they will help me get access to farmers in the region. I have also made friends with a local man who has agreed to let me use his motorbike if I pay for Gas, so I’ve got transport covered now too.
Anyways, updates soon to come!
This week, I met with a government planning officer, and the Bishop of the Anglican Diocese of Kiteto to discuss the question of food storage. The Bishop was very eager to tell me that his Diocese has been focusing on food security issues, and mentioned that one major issue amongst his people was food security during the rainy season (Fed to April), which he attributed to farmer’s lack of food storage capacity. We talked for a bit about my research interests, and he seemed interested and said that he would be very interested to help me with my research.
At this point, I see my research interests shifting towards a question that is more relevant to the community needs here: How food storage can be a means to improving food security and economic well being of small scale farmers in the Kiteto and Simanjiro Districts. I have adapted my survey that I originally drafted to work with Parachichi producers to give a good understanding of the household income portfolios of small scale farmers here in Kiteto. Both the Bishop and the Project planning officer have assured me that they will help me get access to farmers in the region. I have also made friends with a local man who has agreed to let me use his motorbike if I pay for Gas, so I’ve got transport covered now too.
Anyways, updates soon to come!
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